- Home
-
Rabbit Resources
- About
- ISO
-
RFSAS
- RFSAS Pinned Post
- Forbidden Topics
- RFSAS Rules
- RFSAS FAQs
- RFSAS Breeder Data Entry Forms >
- RFS&S Breeder Map
-
RFSAS Breeder List
>
- American
- American Chinchilla
- American Fuzzy Lop
- American Sable
- Argente Brun
- Belgian Hare
- Beveren
- Blanc de Hotot
- Brittania Petite
- Californian
- Champagne d'Argent
- Checkered Giant
- Cinnamon
- Continental Giant
- Creme d'Argent
- Czech Frosty
- Dutch
- Dwarf Hotot
- Dwarf Papillon
- English Angora
- English Lop
- English Spot
- Flemish Giant
- Florida White
- French Angora
- French Lop
- Giant Angora
- Giant Chinchilla
- Harlequin
- Havana
- Himalayan
- Holland Lop
- Jersey Wooly
- Lilac
- Lionhead
- Mini Lop
- Mini Rex
- Mini Satin
- Netherland Dwarf
- New Zealand
- Palomino
- Polish
- Rex
- Rhinelander
- San Juan
- Satin
- Satin Angora
- Silver
- Silver Fox
- Silver Marten
- Standard Chinchilla
- Tamuk
- Tan
- Thrianta
- Velveteen Lop
- Other Breeds and Mixes
Forbidden Topics for My Rabbit Groups
(c) Gryph- if you repost this article, please post with a link back to my website.
I am the primary administrator and/or a moderator for several groups on Facebook. For simplification, I have compiled a list here along with assistance from several of my fellow admins and moderators of topics we do not permit, that we discourage, and that we will downright lecture you on if you post about them. Some of these are because of ethical reasons, some are for humane treatment, and some are just because. Don't like it? Tough. Find another group then.
Please note that we do NOT forbid discussion about why the following topics are unethical, immoral or inhumane. Rather, we forbid encouragement of the following topics.
All of my groups are intended to be teaching groups. There are a lot of knowledgeable bunny peeps in these groups who donate their time, knowledge, and resources to help educate. You may not like what you're told, and when it comes down to it they are your rabbits and we can't make decisions for you. But if one of us believes that you are doing something irresponsible or unethical we will speak up. That is NOT drama. That is educating. Please do not be rude if you're told something you don't like. You don't have to agree with us, but in the end these are my groups and I don't know a single RESPONSIBLE breeder who won't agree with me. If you need to learn, hit me up, let's talk. If you just can't handle this, I'm sure you can find the unjoin button on any of my groups.
Rabbit Groups Where These Rules Apply:
Rabbits for Sustenance and Shit: www.facebook.com/groups/rabbitsandshit/
Unrecognized Rex Varieties & Patterns in the US: www.facebook.com/groups/theotherrex/
Please read on for more details.
Please note that we do NOT forbid discussion about why the following topics are unethical, immoral or inhumane. Rather, we forbid encouragement of the following topics.
All of my groups are intended to be teaching groups. There are a lot of knowledgeable bunny peeps in these groups who donate their time, knowledge, and resources to help educate. You may not like what you're told, and when it comes down to it they are your rabbits and we can't make decisions for you. But if one of us believes that you are doing something irresponsible or unethical we will speak up. That is NOT drama. That is educating. Please do not be rude if you're told something you don't like. You don't have to agree with us, but in the end these are my groups and I don't know a single RESPONSIBLE breeder who won't agree with me. If you need to learn, hit me up, let's talk. If you just can't handle this, I'm sure you can find the unjoin button on any of my groups.
Rabbit Groups Where These Rules Apply:
Rabbits for Sustenance and Shit: www.facebook.com/groups/rabbitsandshit/
Unrecognized Rex Varieties & Patterns in the US: www.facebook.com/groups/theotherrex/
Please read on for more details.
Animal Ads:
Unfortunately, Facebook changed its policies a long time ago and then a few years ago, started enforcing it. Entire groups have been deleted without warning for permitting the posting of ads of live animals. Because of this, we cannot permit any posts that even hint at being an ad for a live animal. The current information can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/policies_center/commerce/animals
Scruffing Rabbits/Carrying and/or Picking up by the Scruff and/or Ears:
Picking up a rabbit by the scruff (the fur at the back of the neck) and/or ears is dangerous for the rabbit and to be frank- for you! The scruff may safely be used to grasp a rabbit to hold it still against the ground before scooping up his hindquarters.
MYTH: Rabbit mothers carry or move their kits by the scruff. Unlike dogs and cats, rabbit mothers do not carry or move their kits by the scruff.
Even if you don't have a heart and don't care about humane treatment, picking up a rabbit by the scruff separates the connecting tissue between the pelt and the meat. Rabbit skin is made up of three layers- the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous. Rabbit skin- just like our skin- is plentiful with nerves which allow them to feel touch, pressure, temperature, and pain. The subcutaneous layer consists of fat, connective tissue, blood vessels and nerves. This layer helps hold the skin to the muscle tissue. When you scruff, that skin is torn loose from the muscle tissue. This separation can be permanent and will result in a loosely-attached pelt which lowers the quality of your rabbit and its pelt. For a pet rabbit, it may mean that they just have baggy skin, but for a show rabbit or a rabbit raised for its pelt, it means they will not be in peak condition. Cats and puppies have loose skin that is designed to be gathered without damaging the skin; however, rabbits have skin that is well attached to the muscle of their backs. When you scruff them, you separate that attachment. For Himalayan or Californian colored rabbits, they can even have discoloration where the pelt is not well attached.
Rabbits are also ridiculously delicate, and one wrong kick or twist while being scruffed can result in serious injury- sometimes fatally. Injuries such as broken limbs or a broken back can be lethal to a rabbit, and if not lethal at least ridiculously painful. As prey animals, they are very stoic when in pain and are not even likely to show any indication that they are in pain- showing indicators of pain equals vulnerable. As prey animals, they are also more likely to lean towards flight than fight when frightened, and picking up a rabbit by the scruff is certainly likely to make them feel threatened since it is not a natural pose for them; as a matter of fact, predators often grab rabbits by the back or the neck.
Finally, a kicking rabbit is nothing to sneeze at as far as injury or damage to yourself! If you've been around rabbits for any length of time, odds are good you've managed to pick up a couple of scratches. A frightened rabbit is more likely to scramble and scratch in an attempt to escape.
For tips on why this is a bad idea and for better ideas on how to handle, pick up, and carry your rabbit, please visit: http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/Surgery/Restraint/Handling.htm
For more information on handling rabbits safer, if you are a member of the Rabbits for Sustenance and Shit on Facebook, visit this link and read the comments for some awesome information including photos and videos: www.facebook.com/groups/rabbitsandshit/permalink/579473012735939/
MYTH: Rabbit mothers carry or move their kits by the scruff. Unlike dogs and cats, rabbit mothers do not carry or move their kits by the scruff.
Even if you don't have a heart and don't care about humane treatment, picking up a rabbit by the scruff separates the connecting tissue between the pelt and the meat. Rabbit skin is made up of three layers- the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous. Rabbit skin- just like our skin- is plentiful with nerves which allow them to feel touch, pressure, temperature, and pain. The subcutaneous layer consists of fat, connective tissue, blood vessels and nerves. This layer helps hold the skin to the muscle tissue. When you scruff, that skin is torn loose from the muscle tissue. This separation can be permanent and will result in a loosely-attached pelt which lowers the quality of your rabbit and its pelt. For a pet rabbit, it may mean that they just have baggy skin, but for a show rabbit or a rabbit raised for its pelt, it means they will not be in peak condition. Cats and puppies have loose skin that is designed to be gathered without damaging the skin; however, rabbits have skin that is well attached to the muscle of their backs. When you scruff them, you separate that attachment. For Himalayan or Californian colored rabbits, they can even have discoloration where the pelt is not well attached.
Rabbits are also ridiculously delicate, and one wrong kick or twist while being scruffed can result in serious injury- sometimes fatally. Injuries such as broken limbs or a broken back can be lethal to a rabbit, and if not lethal at least ridiculously painful. As prey animals, they are very stoic when in pain and are not even likely to show any indication that they are in pain- showing indicators of pain equals vulnerable. As prey animals, they are also more likely to lean towards flight than fight when frightened, and picking up a rabbit by the scruff is certainly likely to make them feel threatened since it is not a natural pose for them; as a matter of fact, predators often grab rabbits by the back or the neck.
Finally, a kicking rabbit is nothing to sneeze at as far as injury or damage to yourself! If you've been around rabbits for any length of time, odds are good you've managed to pick up a couple of scratches. A frightened rabbit is more likely to scramble and scratch in an attempt to escape.
For tips on why this is a bad idea and for better ideas on how to handle, pick up, and carry your rabbit, please visit: http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/Surgery/Restraint/Handling.htm
For more information on handling rabbits safer, if you are a member of the Rabbits for Sustenance and Shit on Facebook, visit this link and read the comments for some awesome information including photos and videos: www.facebook.com/groups/rabbitsandshit/permalink/579473012735939/
Using Horse Paste Dewormer:
DO NOT USE HORSE PASTE. Horse paste is designed to treat a much larger animal and the medication is mixed into the paste, but is often not mixed so thoroughly that a pea-sized drop (as some people will tell you to use) might have none of the medication in it, or might have a dangerous dose in it. I cannot tell you how many horror stories I have heard (from close friends and people I trust) about rabbits who were exposed to toxic doses from using even a pea-sized dollop of horse paste. Some of the rabbits recovered, and some did not.
Ivermectin works by stimulating excessive release of neurotransmitters in the peripheral nervous system of parasites. It paralyzes the parasite and inactivates the parasite gut. Overdose of ivermectin (which is a neurotoxin) leads to continuous "firing" of the nerves. Problems can include limb paralysis, seizure, coma, tremor and sometimes death.
Safer alternatives are the injectable form (can be injected or used topically for mites), and if unable to find that the pour-on form. We aren't crazy about the pour-on form applied topically only (do not inject) since the primary ingredient is alcohol which is very uncomfortable to apply to open sores.
Ivermectin works by stimulating excessive release of neurotransmitters in the peripheral nervous system of parasites. It paralyzes the parasite and inactivates the parasite gut. Overdose of ivermectin (which is a neurotoxin) leads to continuous "firing" of the nerves. Problems can include limb paralysis, seizure, coma, tremor and sometimes death.
Safer alternatives are the injectable form (can be injected or used topically for mites), and if unable to find that the pour-on form. We aren't crazy about the pour-on form applied topically only (do not inject) since the primary ingredient is alcohol which is very uncomfortable to apply to open sores.
Holiday Pets:
We do not condone the sell of rabbits (or any animal) as holiday pets. This includes Easter, Christmas, Valentines Day, etc. See this article for more information: http://www.edelweissranch.com/holiday-pets.html
Using Motor Oil, Antifreeze and/or WD-40 on Rabbits:
This is an old-fashioned method that is not considered humane. These are toxic substances and if absorbed into the skin and/or licked by the rabbit (or by companion rabbits), they can make your rabbit sick and even kill it. There are plenty of other alternatives- if you need one, post a question in the group or PM one of your admins/mods. Thanks!
Selling Kits Younger Than 8 Weeks Old:
Okay, I know what you are going to say- you don't allow sales of animals in your Facebook groups! You're right, but we also do not permit ANY discussion of selling kits younger than 8 weeks old, even in theory. We don't really have any say in what age you wean your kits at, but selling before they are 8 weeks old is inhumane in our opinion. Digestive systems in rabbits do not close until about 12 weeks of age, so selling at such a young age is opening both the rabbit(s) and the buyer to a lot of risk of things like weaning enteritis. Just don't do it.
Striking/Hitting/Punching/Kicking/Beating a Rabbit:
To be frank, I'm disappointed that I even need to add this topic to the forbidden list. There is NEVER a good reason to hit, kick, punch and/or strike a rabbit. First of all, that's straight up abuse. Rabbits are prey animals, they are programmed to flight over fight. They are also rather delicate creatures. It's far too easy to damage a rabbit by any of these methods. Trust me, using the excuse that you want or need to "dominate" your rabbit is utter hogwash. You're a predator, you attacking your rabbit is not showing your dominance. As far as your rabbit is concerned, you are trying to kill the rabbit as prey. And being a bully is just unnecessary.
Bludgeoning to Stun/Kill:
This method involves a sharp heavy blow to the head from a sturdy club, hand or similar instrument. The animal is rendered unconscious immediately with death following quickly from severe brain trauma. The suffering of the animal is dependent on the skill of the person wielding the instrument. Doing this incorrectly can cause severe pain to the animal in question and is not recommended as a method of culling. We understand that some experienced breeders use this method, but as all of our groups are learning groups aimed at not only experienced rabbit breeders but also new breeders, we discourage the use of bludgeoning as it can go wrong so easily.
For more information, please review the following article (warning graphic photos): www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5742794/?fbclid=IwAR2mv2cj8JADesPJ3ceyqzCgbe6iDOq2xgnvkV8a-wXmxMphnFkt6l2_6V8
For more information, please review the following article (warning graphic photos): www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5742794/?fbclid=IwAR2mv2cj8JADesPJ3ceyqzCgbe6iDOq2xgnvkV8a-wXmxMphnFkt6l2_6V8
Drowning to Kill:
The animal is held underwater until dead. This form of death produces high stress and anxiety and pain as water enters the lungs. This is very, very inhumane.
Asphyxiation/Gassing/Freezing/Burying Alive to Kill:
The animal is either strangled, smothered, buried, gassed or placed into a freezer while still alive. Some people believe that the rabbit just goes to sleep and feels no pain. This is not the case. Rabbits will rarely lay quietly while being strangled or smothered. And rabbits placed into a freezing environment will suffer immense pain and anxiety. Their blood literally crystallizes in the freezing process and it is agonizing. We realize that for some, CO2 gassing is immediate and believed to be humane, but there are as many reliable reports that it is NOT humane as there are that it IS and so we are erring on the side of caution (and safety).
Live Feeding to Predators:
We get it. People do it. But we don't condone discussion of it. Discussion of live feeding to snakes, reptiles, dogs, cats, etc is not permitted. Not only can the rabbits suffer psychological stress while being hunted by the animal, but the rabbit can also harm the predator by biting it. We understand that death is often immediate for the rabbit- but unfortunately, often does not mean always. We DO permit (and encourage) discussion of feeding dead rabbits to predators, whether whole prey method or parted out.
Selling/Donating/Rehoming Pet Quality Rabbits to 4-H and FFA Kids:
Do not sell or breed for 4-H and FFA unless the rabbit is show quality. Just don't do it. Kids are especially vulnerable to getting crappy rabbits pawned off on them. Just... don't.
Castrating Bucks at Home:
We do not condone home castration with rabbits. This is a 100% do at your own risk if it’s something you choose to do, but we will remove any comments encouraging someone else to do it.
Feeding Meat/Bacon to Rabbits:
Feeding meat and/or bacon to rabbits to prevent them from killing their kits is an old wives tale. Please do not do it. Rabbits are true herbivores and are not designed to digest meat. Yes, the rabbit WILL usually eat the meat if you give it to them- but that is not because they WANT to. Rather, it is because it is their natural instinct to "clean" their burrow/home of anything that will attract predators. This is one reason does will also sometimes eat dead kits. The scent of blood and/or decaying flesh often attracts predators which in turn risks the safety of the doe and/or any kits she may have.
Breeding Domestic Rabbits with Wild Rabbits (in the US):
Native wild rabbits cannot cross-breed with domestic rabbits in the US and our groups will discourage anyone trying to claim otherwise. Please see this article for more information.
Keeping/Raising Wild Rabbits (in the US):
Wild rabbits do not do well in captivity. Not only do their survival instincts prevent them from being a suitable pet but they can spread dangerous diseases to domestic rabbits. They have been adapted for a wide range of diet versus our domestic rabbits which have typically been adapted for primarily a pellet or pellet and hay diet. In many states of the US, it is actually illegal to keep wild rabbits.
Turning Domestic Rabbits Loose to Become Feral Rabbits
Domestic rabbits are NOT equipped to be turned loose and become wild. Not only is that setting them up for failure, it's also a huge risk in spreading diseases like RHD/RHDV and RHDV2. We are in full support of colony raising, but not in turning domestic rabbits loose to fend for themselves and risk spreading disease.
Encouraging/Encouragement of Abuse/Neglect/Any of the Above/Etc:
Just DON'T DO IT! Seriously. I mean it.
PERMITTED TOPICS:
These topics ARE PERMITTED and even encouraged in my groups: Raising rabbits for meat, butchering/culling, performing necropsies, processing, weaning, breeding, birthing, handling kits at birth on, photographing kits, colony raising, tractoring, etc.
