Making Pedigrees
(c) Gryph- if you repost this article, please post with a link back to my website.
Making a pedigree may seem very complicated but it's actually very simple. It's literally a matter of taking the sire's pedigree and plugging the information into the top section and taking the dam's pedigree and plugging the information into the bottom section. You could technically literally take a screen shot of the buck's information and paste it into a document, then do the same with the doe's information, and then type in the rabbit's information which you are providing the pedigree for. Be sure to list a weight, an ear number/tattoo ID, and a variety for every rabbit on the pedigree wherever possible in case someone wants to register a rabbit down the road. If your rabbit isn't a senior yet, then don't include a weight. Also be sure to provide the date of birth for the rabbit being pedigreed.
What if you have parents who aren't pedigreed? You can still start a partial pedigree with just the parents' information. A complete pedigree has three generations of ancestors and includes the weight, an ear number/tattoo ID, and a variety for every rabbit on the pedigree. Any of this information missing means your pedigree is not technically complete. But even a partial pedigree is better than no pedigree.
NEVER, EVER, take credit for someone else's breeding. If you are not the one who selected the doe and the buck, and bred them together, then you are NOT the breeder. Give credit where credit is due. Often breeders will sell bred rabbits and require the litter to be pedigreed under their rabbitry. Sometimes breeders will allow you to pedigree the litter under your own rabbitry. Be sure to confirm what the breeder wants before you start making decisions. Sometimes with co-breedings (where one breeder owns the doe and one owns the buck), breeders will put BOTH names on the pedigrees (ie Gryph's/Oracle's EO451), and sometimes they will split the litter and pedigree their choices under their own rabbitry. If buck owners stud out (not commonly done, but sometimes done among close and trusted friends), often they choose pick of the litter as their "stud fee." Usually they will then pedigree their pick under their rabbitry while the rest of the litter is pedigreed under the doe owner's rabbitry. But no matter what the situation is, make sure you have it confirmed between you before you jump ahead. Even better, get it in writing so there are no misunderstandings later.
What if you have parents who aren't pedigreed? You can still start a partial pedigree with just the parents' information. A complete pedigree has three generations of ancestors and includes the weight, an ear number/tattoo ID, and a variety for every rabbit on the pedigree. Any of this information missing means your pedigree is not technically complete. But even a partial pedigree is better than no pedigree.
NEVER, EVER, take credit for someone else's breeding. If you are not the one who selected the doe and the buck, and bred them together, then you are NOT the breeder. Give credit where credit is due. Often breeders will sell bred rabbits and require the litter to be pedigreed under their rabbitry. Sometimes breeders will allow you to pedigree the litter under your own rabbitry. Be sure to confirm what the breeder wants before you start making decisions. Sometimes with co-breedings (where one breeder owns the doe and one owns the buck), breeders will put BOTH names on the pedigrees (ie Gryph's/Oracle's EO451), and sometimes they will split the litter and pedigree their choices under their own rabbitry. If buck owners stud out (not commonly done, but sometimes done among close and trusted friends), often they choose pick of the litter as their "stud fee." Usually they will then pedigree their pick under their rabbitry while the rest of the litter is pedigreed under the doe owner's rabbitry. But no matter what the situation is, make sure you have it confirmed between you before you jump ahead. Even better, get it in writing so there are no misunderstandings later.