EDELWEISS RANCH
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Transporters

Using Transporters to Move Rabbits

*Disclaimer: I do not condone the use of Susan Cady dba Willamette Valley Rabbitry dba Rabbit Transport Coast to Coast as I do not approve of her practices. I will not send any rabbits on transport that may come into contact with Susan. Please do your research on your transporter before committing to using him or her. For more information about Susan Cady's practices, please check out: ​https://www.facebook.com/groups/cadycapers
(c) Gryph- if you repost this article, please post with a link back to my website.
It's fairly common for people to ship rabbits whether across the country, between Canada and the US, or just a few cities over using transporters. Using a transporter isn't the only option for moving rabbits, but it is one of the most popular methods. Transporters are people who shuttle rabbits for a fee, committing to picking up, caring for, and delivering rabbits. Rabbits are easily stressed- allergens, sunlight, car lights, noises, hot or cold temperatures and many other factors can potentially stress a rabbit, so it's important to use an experienced transporter. Transporting rabbits is a tough job, and many transporters would tell you that it's often a thankless one! There are a lot of little details to keep track of.
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Typically, the buyer of the rabbit is the one who makes the arrangements with a transporter, but sometimes the seller will make the arrangements, and both parties need to be involved in order to coordinate schedules and information.

One big, huge, fat reminder before you dive into the rest of this article: Transport is ALWAYS a gamble. Even the most experienced transporter can have things go wrong. There is always some risk.

Additional Warnings re: RHDV1/RHDV2

PLEASE try to avoid sending rabbits or transporting rabbits through hot zones that are active for RHDV1/RHDV2. 

Choosing a Transporter

If you are looking to arrange a transport, the first step is to find a transporter who is traveling your needed route, or at least close enough that you and the other party can make it work. It's important that everyone involved do their very best to communicate clearly and efficiently.

Start with talking to friends and fellow breeders about who they have used and their experiences. Be cautious about reviews online- transporting is a tough job and it's virtually impossible to keep every customer happy. Look for an experienced transporter who knows the ropes and is willing to communicate promptly and with the appropriate information. There are some fantastic transport-related groups on Facebook, including review groups, where you can look for transports. Cost can vary depending on who is transporting, the length of the trip (having to care for rabbits overnight or longer is likely going to cost you more), and any special needs the rabbit may have such as special feeding regimes or necessary grooming. I've paid anywhere from $10-$100 per rabbit for rabbit transport in the past. I've charged and paid $15-$30 per rabbit for trips within the Pacific Northwest (Washington, Oregon, Idaho). Consider what it would cost you to travel to pick the rabbit up yourself, and be thankful for the transporter's prices.

Be sure to ask about your transporter's policies BEFORE sending payment. Find out how long your rabbit is planned to be en route. Find out where the transporter would like to meet you- don't expect doorstep delivery, it's just not the norm. Usually the transporter will offer a meeting place right off a main freeway to make things easy for them. If they ask you for suggestions try to offer a gas station, a fast food place restaurant or some other public place that's easily accessible and close to a major freeway on their route. Your goal is to minimize the miles and minutes that the transporter must spend away from the route.

When it comes right down to it, the best indicator of a good transporter is having repeat customers!

Arranging for Transport

One thing to consider whether you are sending a rabbit on transport or receiving a rabbit on transport is that no matter how closely a transporter tries to set a strict schedule there are all sorts of variables that can force a transporter to deviate from that schedule and even sometimes their original route. These variables can include things like unexpected road closures, extreme weather conditions, mechanical failure, and even unexpected traffic. Expect to be as flexible as possible to make things reasonable for you, the other person involved (whether a buyer or seller), your transporter, and even your rabbit.

When you set up a transport as either the buyer or the seller, be sure to notify your transporter of any details about your rabbit- the age, the breed, where it needs to be picked up and dropped off, and any special notes. For example if you have a rabbit who is larger than normal for its breed, let your transporter know so that he or she can make sure they have a large enough hole ready for your rabbit.

Some transports are multi-leg transports, which means that rabbits will be handed off from one transporter to another. This makes it even more important for you to communicate clearly and handle your responsibilities as a seller or a buyer. Like the childhood game of telephone, instructions given verbally are likely to get garbled from one person to another.

Mitigate Potential Problems Ahead of Time

Do what you can to mitigate any potential issues ahead of time:
  • Keep good records of any and all communications
  • Make payments in a method you can track- PayPal (not friends and family), Wal-Mart Money Transfer, etc
  • Stay flexible on meeting times and sometimes even dates
  • Make backup pickup arrangements if a time and/or date change might be affected by your work schedule
  • Don't expect your transporter to remember every detail of your transaction- expect that to be your responsibility- you are dealing with one transporter while the transporter is dealing with many buyers/sellers
  • Know the transporter's planned route ahead of time and calculate how long your rabbit(s) will be en route- there's risk any time a rabbit is transported that they will be stressed and lose condition, and the longer a rabbit is en route the bigger the risk
  • Create a group text or group message including you, the other party (whether buyer or seller), and your transporter which includes contact information for all three parties. Outline the plan- estimated dates/times/locations of rabbit pickup and rabbit drop off.
  • Don't nag your transporter for details while en route unless they are not communicating at all with you- remember that most transporters will not text, message or call while driving and that indeed it's even illegal in many states to do so
  • Many transporters will set up a group chat on Facebook, a group bulk text, and/or set up a Group or Page on Facebook to keep their customers up to date- but if you aren't getting the information that you need then contact the transporter directly

Transporting to Canada (or From Canada to the US)

Currently, rabbits are able to be transported into and from Canada without any special permitting; however, rabbit feed, hay and shavings MAY NOT legally be transported across the border. Make plans for this- if your transporter will be traveling TO the border across the US send any needed transition feed and make sure your buyer knows that the transporter will have to dispose of any extra feed before crossing the border. Be sure your buyer knows what brand and protein percentage your feed is so that they can match it as closely as they can for the rabbit's arrival. Most transporters will not actually cross the border- the buyer is expected to meet them at the border. Be sure to take these things into consideration if you are arranging a transport across the border from either direction.

Sending a Rabbit on Transport

If you send a rabbit on transport, do what you can to make things easier on your transporter and help protect your own interests on the transport.
  1. First of all, be sure the rabbit is groomed with nails trimmed, and that the rabbit has a clear and legible tattoo in its left ear identifying it. It's a good idea to take dated photos of your rabbit prior to pickup as well to confirm the rabbit's condition at time of pickup.
  2. Clearly label your transition food with your name, the city/state and name of the person it's going to, and a description of the rabbit. If you can send your feed in something other than a Ziploc bag that's best; Ziploc bags aren't very durable and don't handle a multi-day journey very well. I've used plastic shoe boxes in the past with great success on my own transports, and they are very inexpensive. It's a good idea to label the container with the brand and protein percentage of the feed as well as any special feed instructions you may have. Remember to label both the lid and the container in case they get separated during feeding.
  3. Remember that your rabbit will need travel food as well as transition food for when it arrives to the buyer. It's easy enough to estimate how much food your rabbit will need per day. Standard sized rabbits typically eat about a cup a day, for example, so you can measure out one cup for each day of transport, plus transition food, plus a little extra in case of an emergency. The amount of feed your rabbit will need will depend on its breed, age and size. On average, a rabbit should expect to eat approximately one fluid ounce of feed per pound of weight each day. There are 8 fluid ounces in one cup. Using these calculations, you can determine that a four pound rabbit will eat about 4 oz or 1/2 cup of feed per day. An eight pound rabbit will eat about 8 oz or 1 cup per day. If you have a pregnant doe, assume she will eat more than normal.
  4. Try not to send pedigrees, leg certificates and any other relative paperwork with the transporter. Consider sending those documents through the mail or electronically when possible instead. If you must send them with the transporter, make a copy for your records in case they are somehow lost or damaged in transit, put them in a sealed envelope (large 9x12 envelopes are easier to keep track of than small #10 envelopes) with your name, the buyer's city/state and name and a description of the rabbit. This is also an excellent place to write any details or instructions you may have for your transporter and/or buyer. Do not expect your transporter to remember details off the top of their head or because you told them at pick up. They have a lot of information they are already keeping track of. Try to keep your directions or instructions as sparing and specific as you can. Ideally, make a list for your transporter including rabbit(s), ear numbers, description of rabbit, and buyer's name, city and state. Include phone numbers for both you and the buyer for easy access. Tell your buyer what you will be sending with the rabbit- bag(s) of feed, envelope, etc. This way your buyer can help the transporter know what you leave behind with the rabbit.
  5. If you are sending your rabbit in/with a carrier, be sure to use an appropriate wire rabbit carrier and not a pet taxi-style carrier. It's a good idea to line the tray with puppy pads for ease of cleaning.
  6. Be on time to meet your transporter to hand off the rabbit (better yet, be a few minutes early). Try to remember that the meeting times (and sometimes even dates) may need to be flexible based on variables like traffic, weather, etc.
  7. Remember that your transporter is handling a LOT OF rabbits and pickup/drop off locations. Be flexible and be kind.
  8. When your transporter arrives, expect him or her to do an inspection of your rabbit- transporters should turn away any animal showing any potential signs of illness or poor condition. Check to see what kind of carrier your transporter is using. Is it clean? Is the available hole (carrier space) big enough for your rabbit? Ideally your transporter will not be using a pet taxi-type carrier but instead will be using a rabbit carrier. Rabbit carriers have wire bottoms with leak-proof trays underneath so that rabbits are not sitting in their urine and feces during transport.

Receiving a Rabbit on Transport

When you are receiving a rabbit via transport:
  1. This is the most important one of all- PAY FOR YOUR RABBIT AHEAD OF TIME! Transporters do not have the time to wait for you to send your buyer a payment.
  2. Be sure to communicate with your seller. What is the seller sending along with the rabbit? Will the pedigrees and any other pertinent paperwork (registrations, leg certificates, etc) be sent with the transporter?
  3. Be on time to meet your transporter to pick up your rabbit (better yet, be a few minutes early). Try to remember that the meeting times (and sometimes even dates) may need to be flexible based on variables like traffic, weather, etc.
  4. Remember that your transporter is handling a LOT OF rabbits and pickup/drop off locations. Be flexible and be kind.
  5. When your transporter arrives, do an inspection of your rabbit- look for any symptoms of poor condition or illness and point any of these out to the transporter.
  6. Be sure that your transporter gives you anything that your seller told you they were sending along: paperwork, transition feed, etc. Don't be shy to specifically ask for something that you were told was coming with your rabbit.
  7. Immediately inform your seller that you have your rabbit and explain any concerns you have, if you have any. Do not put this off.

Be Patient, Be Kind, Be Thankful

Be PATIENT, kind and understanding. Most importantly, be as flexible as possible. Remember that these transporters are doing their very best but they are also human and mistakes are sometimes made. Do what you can to mitigate problems and most of all remember that COMMUNICATION IS YOUR FRIEND! Transporters are doing all of us a great favor by transporting on these routes and both buyers and sellers benefit from their services. If just one person is late meeting a transporter, they put everyone else behind schedule. Remember that most transporters will not communicate until they stop- whether for gas, a break, or for rest at the end of the day. Without transporters many of us would miss out on affordable opportunities to bring in new stock and outside bloodlines.

Doing a Transport

Well, I just have to say first of all... don't think this adventure will be a fast money maker. Transporting is grueling, unforgiving, and often unappreciated work. If you can make a successful run, then fantastic. But before you commit to the craziness, consider what you are committing to. You will be responsible for not only other people's rabbits but communication, belongings, important paperwork, and will be juggling at least two people for every rabbit. Before you even continue reading, do your own research before you run a transport, and don't use these suggestions as expert advice.

Before you even start out:
  1. Be organized. Not just organized, but UBER organized.
  2. Get payment in full prior to committing to transport.
  3. Communicate, communicate, communicate- did I mention communicate?
  4. Remember that you will probably never make everyone involved 100% happy. Just do your best and own up if you make a mistake.
  5. Make a list as you schedule your transports- include the seller's and buyer's name, phone numbers, meeting locations, the rabbit's breed, description, ear number, and any special instructions you are given ahead of time. It's a good idea to include the date payment was made and how much the fee was, in case there are any questions. Even better- print communication and payment receipts and put them in a folder or binder and bring them with you.
  6. Have enough carriers for each rabbit- if you will be picking up as you drop off be sure you've calculated correctly. Only use designated rabbit carriers- no pet taxis. Sanitize the carriers before your trip and be sure they are CLEAN. Pack a squeegee to clean carrier trays at nightly stops. Many transporters choose to line the carrier trays with puppy pads to make for easy clean up. If you choose to do this, be sure to pack extras so you can change them out regularly. Be sure the hole sizes you have will fit each rabbit you are planning to transport. If you are dropping off a Netherland Dwarf and picking up a Flemish Giant at the same location, the Flemish Giant will not fit into a Netherland Dwarf-size carrier hole. Only one rabbit per hole unless your buyer and/or seller has specifically stated otherwise (sometimes sellers will send juniors in a hole together to reduce stress).
  7. Have a crate or tub ready to put bags/containers of transition food in that will prevent the bags/containers from touching any rabbit carriers (rabbits can chew things through carrier wire) and have a portable file box on hand to put any paperwork in- designating places to keep these things ahead of time will help to keep you organized. Put two sharpies and a few pens and a blank notepad in your portable file box. Also put a handful of sheet protectors in the box- it's an easy way to keep paperwork together if the seller isn't organized enough to do that themselves. Pack a roll of duct tape too- it's easy for quick labeling or patching up a tearing/torn Ziploc bag.
  8. Consider printing labels ahead of time- three labels per rabbit should be sufficient. Include the seller's information, the buyer's information, meeting location, and the rabbit details and keep the labels in your portable file box. If your seller doesn't label things he or she is sending with the rabbit, simply peel off a label and stick it on.
  9. Print maps and directions of your routes- you may lose GPS signal along the way and having those directions may prove to be invaluable.
  10. Consider setting up a Facebook group, a group chat, or a group text for everyone on your route to stay updated. This will make things easier on you, too. Be sure everyone that's pertinent is added.
When you meet the seller of the rabbit:
  1. Inspect the rabbit. Check the ear number against your records. Check for any signs of illness or poor condition. If you see any signs of either of these, refuse the rabbit and inform the buyer that you have done so. Don't take the risk of being blamed for the rabbit's poor condition. If you're inclined, take pictures of the rabbit.
  2. Be sure the seller gives you travel AND transition food (transition food goes to the buyer). Some sellers put these in separate bags or containers. If the seller did not label the transition and/or travel food bag/container than take a moment to do so upon pickup. Include as much detail as you can, including rabbit breed, description, ear number, and buyer's name/meeting location. If the seller gives you anything else to go with the rabbit, label that too. If you printed labels, this will make things easy and you can just stick one on. Consider adding a note- 1 of 2, 2 of 2, etc for multiple items.
  3. Put the rabbit in the carrier and notify the buyer that you have the rabbit and what your estimated arrival time will be at the meeting location.
While en route:
  1. Keep your sellers/buyers updated as much as you can.
  2. Check on rabbits at every stop- gas breaks, rest stop breaks, and when you stop for the night. Unload the rabbits from the vehicle when stopping overnight whenever possible- this is an ideal time to feed and water rabbits, do a check over them and see how they are doing. Check food and water levels- be sure the rabbit is actually eating and drinking.
  3. Clean carriers before you start out in the morning- your nose will thank you.
  4. Check in with any buyers/sellers you plan to meet that day as early as possible.
When you meet the buyer of the rabbit:
  1. Make sure the buyer examines the rabbit and checks the ear number. This protects you from accusations that you delivered the wrong rabbit.
  2. Be sure to hand over transition feed and any other paperwork/items sent along with the rabbit.
  3. Notify the seller that you dropped off the rabbit.

Click here to continue to the next topic: Care & Grooming

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  • Home
  • Rabbit Resources
    • Apocalypse Bunnies
    • Printables
    • Wild Rabbits
    • Start Here >
      • Your New Rabbit
      • Reasons to Raise Rabbits
      • Rabbit Lingo Demystified
      • Holiday Pets
      • Biosecurity
    • Getting Started >
      • Choosing a Breed
      • Breed Guessing
      • How Many Do I Need
      • Supplies and Equipment
      • Before You Buy
      • Be A Good Buyer
      • Finding a Good Breeder
      • Transporters
    • Care and Grooming >
      • Humane Handling and Treatment
      • Trimming Nails
      • Nutrition
      • Entertainment
    • Colonies and Tractors
    • Conformation
    • Record Keeping >
      • How To Make a Pedigree
      • Is A Pedigree Important
      • Changing Rabbit Names
      • Tattoo Systems
      • How to Tatoo
      • Registering Rabbits
    • Health and Treatments >
      • First Aid Kits
      • Natural Rabbit Remedies
      • Sore Feet and Hocks
      • Ear Mites
      • Fur Mites
      • Malocclusion
      • Eye Problems
      • E cuniculi
      • Myxomatosis
      • Listeriosis
      • Mastitis
    • Breeding >
      • Getting Ready For Kits
      • Co-Breeding
      • Weaning
      • Sexing Kits
      • Breeding With Wild Rabbits
    • Rabbits for Meat >
      • Rabbit Meat Facts
      • Butchering Equipment
      • Dispatching
      • Processing
    • Cooking Rabbit >
      • Cooking Tips
      • Using the Extra Bits
      • Sloppy Hoppies
      • Rabbit Alfredo
    • Showing Rabbits >
      • Entering a Show
      • The Day of the Show
      • Show Etiquette
    • Genetics >
      • Genetic Terminology
      • Genetic Alphabet
      • A-Locus
      • B-Locus
      • C-Locus
      • D-Locus
      • E-Locus
      • En-Locus
      • Other Genes
      • Punnett Squares
      • Further Genetic Resources
    • Rex or Mini Rex
  • About
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      • American
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      • Californian
      • Champagne d'Argent
      • Checkered Giant
      • Cinnamon
      • Continental Giant
      • Creme d'Argent
      • Czech Frosty
      • Dutch
      • Dwarf Hotot
      • Dwarf Papillon
      • English Angora
      • English Lop
      • English Spot
      • Flemish Giant
      • Florida White
      • French Angora
      • French Lop
      • Giant Angora
      • Giant Chinchilla
      • Harlequin
      • Havana
      • Himalayan
      • Holland Lop
      • Jersey Wooly
      • Lilac
      • Lionhead
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      • Palomino
      • Polish
      • Rex
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      • San Juan
      • Satin
      • Satin Angora
      • Silver
      • Silver Fox
      • Silver Marten
      • Standard Chinchilla
      • Tamuk
      • Tan
      • Thrianta
      • Velveteen Lop
      • Other Breeds and Mixes